Preparation: Remove bowls and metering blocks from your carburetor. Remove the gaskets from the 8 screws that hold the bowls on. You’ll be using the new gaskets. Clean all mating surfaces on the bowls.
If you have jet extensions on the secondary block, remove those for reuse. Otherwise, just set your old metering blocks aside; you won’t need them anymore.
Bowl Conversion:
Now that the bowls are clean, remove the four screws that hold the accelerator pump onto the bowl. Carefully peel the old diaphragm off and keep the spring. Make sure the mating surface for the diaphragm is clean. Install the new diaphragm using the spring from your old pump. Carefully tighten the screws in a cross pattern. Do not over-tighten!
Remove the needle and seat by loosing the locking screw, then unscrewing the adjusting nut. Remove old gasket and clean all mating surfaces. Install the new needle and seat by sliding the large gasket onto the needle and seat, then the adjusting nut, then the small gasket, and then the screw.
To set your initial float setting, turn the bowl upside-down and screw the adjusting nut in until the float parting line lines up with the bottom of the sight-hole. This is just a rough adjustment to get you started. You will need to set the floats to the proper level when the carb is installed on the motor. Tighten the locking screw.
Follow the same procedure for the other bowl.
Metering Blocks:
Your new metering blocks are set up for E85; so the larger idle restrictors (A) are already installed and the emulsion programming plugs have been moved to position #4 (see below)
E85
A= idle restrictors (size comes with kit instructions)
Plugs in position (location comes with kit instructions)
Install the new power valve and gasket with the smaller jets into one metering block (this becomes the primary metering block). Install the new power plug and gasket with the larger jets (becomes the secondary).Note: If you were using jet extensions on the secondary side of your carburetor previously, use a #(size comes with kit) drill bit to carefully drill out the center of the extensions for maximum flow and install.
Install the new fuel whistles into the metering blocks tab-side up so that gasket fits properly on bowl
Idle adjusting screws (B) should be screwed in until they seat, but do not over-torque them. Once seated, unscrew them one and a half turns for initial idle setting. Final tuning will still need to be done on the engine. When you adjust the idle mixture screws, adjust all four screws the same. Duplicate these changes on both blocks.
If you want/need to run gasoline with these blocks, you will need gas restrictors and make the changes listed below (see block diagram, above).
Gasoline
A = Idle Restrictors (size comes with kit instructions)
Emulsion Programming Plugs in position (location comes with kit instructions)
Main Body
Remove the old shooters (accelerator pump discharge nozzles) in the main body. Clean all mating surfaces. Install the new shooters and gaskets (use high-flow screws if supplied).
Final Assembly
Install nylon gaskets on bowl screws. Place new gaskets on the front and back of the metering blocks. If you have jet extensions on the secondary side, be sure to put that block on the secondary side of the carburetor. The fuel inlet ports on the bowls go on the opposite side of the throttle linkage on the main body. Make sure the accelerator pump arm goes under the actuator arm. While tightening the screws that hold the bowl on, give the bowl a slight twist to the left to take slack out of the accelerator pump linkage. Tighten the screws in a cross pattern.
Stick the E85carbs.com label on your fuel bowls by the needle and seat adjusters.
This kit is designed for you to convert a Double Pumper with 4-corner idle to run on E85. We use parts that will get you going, but final tuning will be required. We recommend using a wide band O2 or dyno to tune your motor. Remember to set your fuel level first before you do your tuning.